Chamonix World Cup

The Chamonix World Cup might be the one with the best background scenery. It is a definite favourite among climbers and spectators, but this year’s edition proved once more that it is the routes that make or break a competition. And then the climbers that make or break their own success. This time around, the routes were a bit on the “break” side of things…

In the men’s qualifiers, 69 tops meant that in order to go to semi-finals, two tops were all but necessary. Semi-finals were more difficult, and insecure climbing where a lot of climbers fell due to foot slips. Among them Jan Hojer (GER) and Romain Desgranges (FRA). The latter just made it into finals. He thus came out first in finals and sent the route in front of a roaring crowd in his hometown. Having won both the European Championships and the Villars World Cup, this wasn’t to say that the route was too easy, but he had indeed made it look simple. When Yuki Hada (JPN) topped it too, a repeat of the qualifiers issue seemed possible. His teammate Keiichiro Korenaga did the same, just like Marcello Bombardi (ITA). Because Bombardi was faster, he won his first World Cup, in his first ever World Cup finals. Korenaga and Hada were first-timers on the podium as well. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA), who was first after semi-finals, continued a tough season by not controlling his nerves well enough to top out. This was the first time since the 6-minute rule was introduced that time decided a winner. 

The women’s competition up to finals was “normal” by comparison. Unfortunately, finals is where it matters. In semi-finals, only Janja Garnbret (SLO) managed to top the route, and no one was ex-aequo going into the last round. Anak Verhoeven (BEL) and Kim Jain (KOR) topped the finals route with ease before Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) fell early on the route. Jessica Pilz (AUT) knew that a top was necessary to defend her spot on the podium had trouble controlling her nerves. She missed a foothold in the difficult sequence near the top, which made a mandatory cross-over too insecure. After a bit of back and forth she fell, finishing on 5th place behind the Norwegian newcomer Tina Hafsaas. Janja Garnbret topped the route without a glitch, securing the win.


1. Marcello Bombardi
2. Keiichiro Korenaga
3. Yuki Hada
Full results

1. Janja Garnbret
2. Jain Kim
3. Anak Verhoeven
Full results


2000 Griffe





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