Edinburgh World Cup report

Desgranges and Garnbret solidify their lead in the Lead World Cup by winning the Edinburgh World Cup. Ludovico Fossali has won his first Speed World Cup, Anouck Jaubert won the women's speed event.

Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret have enjoyed a good season so far. Tough and complex semi-final routes did not stop them, in the contrary. In the women's semi-finals, ranks 8 through 26 were all separated by only 3 holds (13+, 14+, and 17+). Garnbret had moved passed the initial section with incredible ease, even missing the right beta did not cause a glitch. Jessica Pilz had luck on her side and was the only athlete who entered finals after falling on 17+. She was out first and, for the first time this season, showed a performance that she later described as "very satisfying" and reached hold 42. She said: "I had fun while climbing. Even if it was to my disadvantage, it is good that countback and not time decided the winner. I am very happy to be back on the podium!" None of the other women managed to climb through the lower part without being short on time when it mattered, and all fell before Jessica Pilz. It was the "same procedure as in every comp" then. Janja Garnbret was out last, and had the pressure on her. After taking more time than she had on the first part, she misread a sequence in the beginning of the deciding section, and had to make some extra moves in a complicated heel hook sequence. While she was demonstrating her great resistance, time was running out. With only a second left on the clock, she controlled hold 42 before being timed out. Countback to semis sealed her win. Kim Jain took the third spot on the podium.

Desgranges' performance in semi-finals did not hint at what was waiting in finals. The Frenchman climbed efficiently and showed that he has, contrarily to for example Ramon Julian, adapted to the new style. Lots of volumes and round holds posed him no more trouble than his main competition, Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert. The latter two had both topped semi-finals in great style. They were separated by 15 seconds on the same hold to decide the podium, putting Ghisolfi in second place. Jakob Schubert became third. It has been 429 since he participated in a Lead World Cup and missed the podium.


Men Lead
1. Romain Desgranges FRA
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
3. Jakob Schubert AUT

Women Lead
1. Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Jessica Pilz AUT
3. Jain Kim KOR

Men Speed
1. Ludovico Fossali ITA
2. Stanislav Kokorin RUS
3. Leonardo Gontera ITA

Women Speed
1. Anouck Jaubert FRA
2. Mariia Krasavina RUS
3. Iuliia Kaplina RUS


2000 Griffe





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