The heat is on in lead!

The World's best lead climbers met in Villars for the first Lead World Cup in 2017. In fact, some of the best Boulderers were there as well, and they collectively surprised. Romain Desgranges (FRA) and Janja Garnbret (SLO) won on short bouldery routes with technical finishes.

While the new lead climbing European Champion Romain Desgranges won and lead climbing specialists (Domen Skofic and Fedir Samoilov) completed the podium, the most interesting take-away from Villars was the incredible performance of some boulderers deemed unfit by many for the endurance fests that are Lead World Cups. Granted, bouldery and intense routes helped, but Jan Hojer, Alexey Rubtsov and Fujii Kokoro (not his first time) showed amazing performances. Hojer only missed the podium due to countback to semi-finals. They climbed fast, dynamically and pleased the crowd. Yuki Hada from Japan, who placed unlucky 21. at three Bouldering World Cups this season, was a particularly spectacular sight as he furiously jumped from hold to hold in finals.
By securing the second place, Domen Skofic finally got back on track after a frustrating bouldering season with only two Top 30 results and timing out and finishing 5th at the European Championships two weeks ago. Fedir Samoilov, who finished third, looks to be in good form this season. He performed very well in every round. 

In the women's, Janja Garnbret had something to make up for after a unfortunate ECH, where a foot slip had stopped her in finals, which probably cost her the podium. She won by cranking her way up the powerful and relatively complex route before bravely executing the last slabby dyno to the finishing jug. This was the feat that neither Mina Markovic, who couldn't stick the top hold, nor Anak Verhoeven, who fell just before the last sequence, could do.
Among the women, the specialised boulderers have not (yet) started to mix in. The 16-year-old Italian Laura Rogora has started to compete in the senior category: she finished 6th at both the European Championships and the World Cup.

In speed, World Record holder Reza Alipourshenazandifar took gold in 5.63 in front of Stanislav Kokorin (6.11) and Vladislav Deulin. Jan Hojer competed in this discipline too, finishing with a time of 8.56 sec.

Anouck Jaubert beat Iuliia Kaplina in a dramatic final where a second round was necessary after they finished with the exact same time in the first round. Mariia Krasavina became third.

Find the IFSC Press release HERE.


Lead men
1. Romain Desgranges (FRA) 41
2. Domen Skofic (SLO) 37
3. Fedir Samoilov (UKR) 35+

Lead women
1. Janja Garnbret (SLO) Top
2. Mina Markovic (SLO) 42+
3. Anak Verhoeven (BEL) 37+

Speed men
1. Reza Alipourshenazandifar (IRI)
2. Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
3. Vladislav Deulin (RUS)

Speed Women
1. Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
2. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
3. Mariia Krasavina (RUS)


2000 Griffe





Climb. Come together. Celebrate!