Olympic Combined Gold for Garnbret!

Today (16.09.) the new Olympic Combined Format (Speed, Bouldering and Lead) had its baptism of fire, when the womens’ competition was held in the Olympiaworld. Janja Garnbret from Slovenia was awarded gold. Silver surprisingly went to Sol Sa (KOR). Jessica Pilz won the bronze-medal. With three medals, two of them gold, Garnbret is the most successful athlete of these World Championships.

In front of 4000 spectators the 6 finalists started into the very first World Championships Finals of the Olympic Combined Format. As expected, the athletes delivered a thrilling competition. Jessica Pilz, Sol Sa (KOR) and Janja Garnbret (SLO) were fighting for the medals. It was obvious that the athletes were feeling the previous ten days of competition.

Perfect Start into speed for Sol Sa and Jessica Pilz
After her false start in the qualification round, Jessica Pilz had to compete against the fastest Combined-Climber of the World Championships. Miho Nonaka (JPN) won the duel, however Pilz still made her way into the semi-finals as the fastest “loser”, where Nonaka was waiting for her again. This time Nonaka made a mistake in the lower part of the route and Pilz was the surprising winner. Sol Sa was faster in finals, which is why Pilz went into the second round on the intermediate rank 2. Janja Garnbret finished fifth in Speed.

Janja Garnbret impossible to beat in the Boulder competition 

Janja Garnbret showed her class in bouldering. The World Champion managed four tops in just seven attempts. With that, she went into the Lead round less tired than her competition. Sol Sa surprisingly came in on the second place in Bouldering. Thereby she was on the provisional first place going into the Lead discipline, which guaranteed her either a gold or silver medal. Jessica Pilz had to settle for the sixth place in Bouldering. Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler and Miho Nonaka could’t make up ground in the Boulder competition.

Jessica Pilz and Janja Garnbret with a top in Lead

In the Lead discipline, the exhaustion was noticeable on all the finalists. Athletic moves led up to a jump which all of the competitors managed. After that, a crimpy section lead to the top section of the route. Only Pilz and Garnbret were able to muster the necessary strength for that part. Pilz managed to top the final route and completed the perfect finish of her strong performance in these World Championships with two medals. The Lead World Champion took home the bronze medal. Janja Garnbret also made the top and took the gold medal because Sol Sa wasn’t able to get the top. Garnbret was happy about her third medal: “It was a very interesting experience. The olympic format is new to all of us and requires a lot of stamina. After the speed discipline I knew that I had to attack. I am very happy that it worked so well!" In respect to the question if she now was the big favorite for Tokyo 2020, the Slovenian smiled and answered: “Yes, maybe!"

The fourth place went to Akiyo Noguchi. Miho Nonaka and Petra Klingler finished on the fifth and sixth place.    


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